~ A MONTH TO REMEMBER ~
Indonesia has once again lived up to its reputation as a world-class surf destination. I found a surplus of waves even in the pouring rain of the wet season. Everywhere I went, whether it was in Bali or Java, it was pumping. I surfed heaving reefs and three hundred meter, sand bottom point breaks all in the same week. I surfed crowded waves and I surfed secret waves. Never could I have imagined that the phone call I received a month ago would lead me to all of this.
In starting out, I knew a large part of my time would involve the creation of a new surfboard model for Deus. What I didn’t know was just how much surfing and fun was going to be involved. Thomas and I spent a week surfing in Java together to find inspiration for the new board. It’s true that we both came back to the shaping bay with new ideas and theories, but we couldn’t help feeling as though we’d scammed the system. We’d surfed perfect waves for a week, and claimed that it was all for product research.
Many beers were consumed and much foam was wasted in the shaping of the board. It was built, tested, dung up on the reef and fixed up in the Temple. Working with Thomas was a success and I hope we’ll be lucky enough to do it all again soon with him and the other Temple guest shapers that will be visiting this year.
There were a lot of amazing moments during my time in Indonesia, but what stands out above the rest, is the feeling of being all alone in perfect waves. I’ve never ridden flawless point breaks with no one around. To do it on numerous occasions was surreal.
I’m hanging out, back at home in Australia, wondering how my time passed by so fast. Most of it’s a blur, but some of the moments will be stamped clear in my mind, forever. The month was full of fun, waves and uncontrollable laughter.
Surfing in the crowds here in Noosa has been a serious reality check.
~ Harrison Roach