Every now and then, the crowded points of Noosa appear differently. Something queer happens in the water after school holidays, publicised or dying swells, after surfers have had their fill. The crowds disappear. There are even odd occasions that I find myself alone at one of the usually packed, points. These moments seem to pop up out of nowhere and never last long.
Photographed here, in complete contrast to every other day of the same week, was one of those moments. Instead of bumping rails with the rest of southeast Queensland’s surfing population, I was surfing alone. Noosa had just seen its second Cyclone swell for the year. Surfers were either catching up on work they’d ignored, trying to explain truancy to schoolteachers, or just happy to take a rest day.
I took the occasion as a chance to test out a new board. Another longboard Thomas Bexon had shaped for me at the Temple. I initially found it hard to get off my concept surfboard. After surfing the Sod model, I now have a daily-dilemma of choosing between the two.
~ HARRISON ROACH
Photos courtesy of Dane Peterson